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White Truffle Dinner 2006: Course 5
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This is the sixth in a series of posts directed to the Fourth Annual White Truffle Dinner that Rhonda and I recently held at my home. For more on the dinner, please see these posts: Introduction | Course 1 | Course 2 | Course 3 | Course 4 | Course 5 | Course 6 | Course 7 | Course 8 | Conclusion
The fifth course for this year's White Truffle Dinner was White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter. This is a dish that I lifted, directly and shamelessly, from Thomas Keller of The French Laundry. The first time that I tasted this at the restaurant was one of those rare moments in my dining history that could accurately be called revelatory. I had enjoyed white truffles a few times before, but never in a dish that so perfectly demonstrated what a spectacular wonder they really are. The surface of the plate was covered with a small mound of creamy risotto, which had been lent an air of luxury by copious amounts of butter, whipped cream, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil. Our server then shaved fresh white truffles on top tableside, their intoxicating aroma seemingly deepened and transported away from the plates by the steam rising from the rice below. A few spoons of browned butter completed the presentation, its nutty complexity melding brilliantly with the earthiness of the truffles while also amplifying the nuttiness of the cheese. The vivid memory of that fantastic experience was in the forefront of my mind when I started planning the first White Truffle Dinner in 2003, and I simply knew that the dish would have to have a starring role on my menu. To this day, the risotto remains my favorite way to enjoy a fresh white truffle, which probably explains why it's the only dish to have earned a spot on all four of our truffle menus.
The recipe for the risotto is set forth in The French Laundry Cookbook, although Keller curiously omitted the browned butter -- a component that elevates the dish to an entirely different plane. The risotto is not, as a general matter, all that difficult to make; it's a relatively standard preparation, followed by the somewhat unusual steps of quickly stirring in large amounts of butter and whipped cream immediately before service. Yet, these latter steps can present a real challenge in the context of a multi-course dinner party for 10+ people, particularly when one is also (a) striving to get the right balance of white truffle oil and salt in the risotto, (b) preparing a large volume of browned butter, (c) cleaning and preparing the fresh truffles for shaving over each plate, and (d) trying to get the plates to the table while the risotto is still warm. Indeed, Rhonda and I have found it virtually impossible for two people to execute all of the necessary steps with perfect synchronicity, and the result is often that the dish suffers in one way or another. After three years' worth of struggling, we decided to try something different this time by skipping the step of stirring butter and whipped cream into the risotto. Although the finished dish may not have been quite as opulent (or heavy), it was still delicious -- and the stress that it saved us was invaluable. Indeed, we were easily able to complete all of the other steps -- i.e., finishing and seasoning the risotto, preparing the browned butter, and preparing/shaving the fresh truffles -- without incident, and the dish reached the table with all of its components at the right consistency and temperature.
Finally, to give you a sense of how the menu has evolved over time (or, in this case, has not evolved over time), here's a summary of the Course 5 selections that we have served since the inaugural White Truffle Dinner in 2003:
The fifth course for this year's White Truffle Dinner was White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter. This is a dish that I lifted, directly and shamelessly, from Thomas Keller of The French Laundry. The first time that I tasted this at the restaurant was one of those rare moments in my dining history that could accurately be called revelatory. I had enjoyed white truffles a few times before, but never in a dish that so perfectly demonstrated what a spectacular wonder they really are. The surface of the plate was covered with a small mound of creamy risotto, which had been lent an air of luxury by copious amounts of butter, whipped cream, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and white truffle oil. Our server then shaved fresh white truffles on top tableside, their intoxicating aroma seemingly deepened and transported away from the plates by the steam rising from the rice below. A few spoons of browned butter completed the presentation, its nutty complexity melding brilliantly with the earthiness of the truffles while also amplifying the nuttiness of the cheese. The vivid memory of that fantastic experience was in the forefront of my mind when I started planning the first White Truffle Dinner in 2003, and I simply knew that the dish would have to have a starring role on my menu. To this day, the risotto remains my favorite way to enjoy a fresh white truffle, which probably explains why it's the only dish to have earned a spot on all four of our truffle menus.The recipe for the risotto is set forth in The French Laundry Cookbook, although Keller curiously omitted the browned butter -- a component that elevates the dish to an entirely different plane. The risotto is not, as a general matter, all that difficult to make; it's a relatively standard preparation, followed by the somewhat unusual steps of quickly stirring in large amounts of butter and whipped cream immediately before service. Yet, these latter steps can present a real challenge in the context of a multi-course dinner party for 10+ people, particularly when one is also (a) striving to get the right balance of white truffle oil and salt in the risotto, (b) preparing a large volume of browned butter, (c) cleaning and preparing the fresh truffles for shaving over each plate, and (d) trying to get the plates to the table while the risotto is still warm. Indeed, Rhonda and I have found it virtually impossible for two people to execute all of the necessary steps with perfect synchronicity, and the result is often that the dish suffers in one way or another. After three years' worth of struggling, we decided to try something different this time by skipping the step of stirring butter and whipped cream into the risotto. Although the finished dish may not have been quite as opulent (or heavy), it was still delicious -- and the stress that it saved us was invaluable. Indeed, we were easily able to complete all of the other steps -- i.e., finishing and seasoning the risotto, preparing the browned butter, and preparing/shaving the fresh truffles -- without incident, and the dish reached the table with all of its components at the right consistency and temperature.Finally, to give you a sense of how the menu has evolved over time (or, in this case, has not evolved over time), here's a summary of the Course 5 selections that we have served since the inaugural White Truffle Dinner in 2003:
- White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter (2003)
- White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter (2004)
- White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter (2005)
- White Truffle Risotto with Fresh Truffle Shavings & Browned Butter (2006)
Its The Festival Time Of Year and What a Better Place to Be than at the 30th Annual Santa Barbara County Vintner's Association Festival April 21, 2012
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Its that time of year once again to hit the road . We will be joining The 100+ members of the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association as they welcome the arrival of spring and the beginning of the new vintage at their 30th annual Vintners’ Festival on April 21, 2012.
The Festival will return to the Santa Ynez Valley on the pastoral grounds of “The Carranza”. “As the festival has grown over the past 30 years, we look for venues that not only will accommodate all of our vintners and guests, but that also showcase the stunning countryside that makes Santa Barbara County one of the most beautiful locations on earth”, states Jim Fiolek, Executive Director of the Association.
“We’re excited about holding the Festival at “The Carranza”, a meadow tucked into a valley created by Zaca Creek as it leaves Foxen Canyon. We strive to move our venue to different areas every few years to allow our guests to see firsthand the many microclimates that support growing a diverse assortment of grape varieties.” The Carranza is located on Zaca Station Road between The Firestone Vineyards and Highway 154, northwest of Los Olivos, California.
A longtime tradition, the 30th annual Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Festival heralds the arrival of the new vintage. All winery members of the Association will be pouring samples of their wines at the festival, which will be complemented by a delectable array of culinary delights from area chefs, specialty food purveyors and caterers.
Two live bands, wine related exhibitions and a silent auction to benefit local charities will round out the day. “Great wines, superb food and friendly people – doesn’t get any better than that!” states Fiolek. “What better way to start off the spring season and the new vintage. Join us!” The 30h Annual Vintners’ Festival will be held on April 21st, from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. at The Carranza, Los Olivos.
In addition to the Festival itself, member wineries are planning open houses, winemaker dinners and special tastings throughout the weekend, and a four day “Vintners’ Visa” passport to 12 participating wineries is also being offered through the Association.
This is an event that takes visitors into the wineries to meet the winemakers and vineyard owners themselves. In addition , guests can can a "TRUE" feel of wine country the way it should be . See you there !
For complete details and tickets, visit the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association website at www.SBCountyWines.com, or call the Association office at (805) 688-0881.
The Festival will return to the Santa Ynez Valley on the pastoral grounds of “The Carranza”. “As the festival has grown over the past 30 years, we look for venues that not only will accommodate all of our vintners and guests, but that also showcase the stunning countryside that makes Santa Barbara County one of the most beautiful locations on earth”, states Jim Fiolek, Executive Director of the Association.
“We’re excited about holding the Festival at “The Carranza”, a meadow tucked into a valley created by Zaca Creek as it leaves Foxen Canyon. We strive to move our venue to different areas every few years to allow our guests to see firsthand the many microclimates that support growing a diverse assortment of grape varieties.” The Carranza is located on Zaca Station Road between The Firestone Vineyards and Highway 154, northwest of Los Olivos, California.
A longtime tradition, the 30th annual Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Festival heralds the arrival of the new vintage. All winery members of the Association will be pouring samples of their wines at the festival, which will be complemented by a delectable array of culinary delights from area chefs, specialty food purveyors and caterers.
Two live bands, wine related exhibitions and a silent auction to benefit local charities will round out the day. “Great wines, superb food and friendly people – doesn’t get any better than that!” states Fiolek. “What better way to start off the spring season and the new vintage. Join us!” The 30h Annual Vintners’ Festival will be held on April 21st, from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. at The Carranza, Los Olivos.
In addition to the Festival itself, member wineries are planning open houses, winemaker dinners and special tastings throughout the weekend, and a four day “Vintners’ Visa” passport to 12 participating wineries is also being offered through the Association.
This is an event that takes visitors into the wineries to meet the winemakers and vineyard owners themselves. In addition , guests can can a "TRUE" feel of wine country the way it should be . See you there !
For complete details and tickets, visit the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association website at www.SBCountyWines.com, or call the Association office at (805) 688-0881.
Rudi Weist Brings Germany's Best Dry Wines To Trilogy Fine Wines And A Who’s Who In The Las Vegas Beverage Industry.
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Wirtz Beverage brand new Trilogy Fine Wine and Spirits division got off to a fast start with the Crème de la crème of the Las Vegas beverage industry. Legendary Rudi Wiest himself of his namesake import company came to Wirtz’s Alchemy room with a palate pleasing line up of German Dry Wines.
No importer that we know of has the knowledge of Rudi Wiest when speaking on the topic of German wines. On this visit he brought a hand selected group of small family owned wine makers from the best wine making regions of Germany.
Marcel von den Benken from Schloss Schonbron in the Rheingau explained that his 2010 Dry Estate Riesling is characterized by high acidity and the 2011 Vintage had a much longer hang time. On the palate both of these amazing Rieslings were nicely balanced, soft and feminine in style. Kunstler winery featured four Rieslings and a lovely Pinot Noir. Carl Erhard from the winery explained that he concentrates his efforts on making grapes for wine and not wine making.
Growing fruit is the most important aspect in the wine. As any experienced wine lover knows, the best wines are made in the vineyard and not in the winery. Carl Erhard follows that tradition to a “T”. As we tasted his 2010 Dry Riesling “old vine “ Stielweg, Carl explained that vines that average 55 years in age. Carl also added that he felt the 2012 Vintage will have a long ageing potential. The Kunstler Pinot Noir Estate 2009 features sour cherry and surprisingly big tannis. Many people consider German Pinot Noir something that is relatively new. In fact, winemakers have been making Pinot Noir the Rheingau for over 800 years long before they planted Rieslings . 2009 was warm year which should translate to a spectacular vintage for Pinot Noir and this Kunstler will not disappoint.
Tasting his 2011 and 2010 Pinot Gris side by side gave a unique insight into the vintages a year apart. The 2011 had much more fruit and was more developed than the 2010, most likely because it was just bottled and the 2010 has “mellowed” with a little more age. Both are ready to be enjoyed now. The 2009 Dr Heger Pinot Noir Dry Grosses Gewachs , Ihringer Winkerberh was next in line to examine. This very nice Pinot Noir was a pleasure to taste. Classic cherry notes, earth, leather and spice come together with silky tannins on the finish.
Wirtz Beverage brand new Trilogy Fine Wine and Spirits division got off to a fast start with the Crème de la crème of the Las Vegas beverage industry. Legendary Rudi Wiest himself of his namesake import company came to Wirtz’s Alchemy room with a palate pleasing line up of German Dry Wines.- Rudi Weist
No importer that we know of has the knowledge of Rudi Wiest when speaking on the topic of German wines. On this visit he brought a hand selected group of small family owned wine makers from the best wine making regions of Germany.
- Schloss Schonborn, Rheingau
Marcel von den Benken from Schloss Schonbron in the Rheingau explained that his 2010 Dry Estate Riesling is characterized by high acidity and the 2011 Vintage had a much longer hang time. On the palate both of these amazing Rieslings were nicely balanced, soft and feminine in style. Kunstler winery featured four Rieslings and a lovely Pinot Noir. Carl Erhard from the winery explained that he concentrates his efforts on making grapes for wine and not wine making.
Growing fruit is the most important aspect in the wine. As any experienced wine lover knows, the best wines are made in the vineyard and not in the winery. Carl Erhard follows that tradition to a “T”. As we tasted his 2010 Dry Riesling “old vine “ Stielweg, Carl explained that vines that average 55 years in age. Carl also added that he felt the 2012 Vintage will have a long ageing potential. The Kunstler Pinot Noir Estate 2009 features sour cherry and surprisingly big tannis. Many people consider German Pinot Noir something that is relatively new. In fact, winemakers have been making Pinot Noir the Rheingau for over 800 years long before they planted Rieslings . 2009 was warm year which should translate to a spectacular vintage for Pinot Noir and this Kunstler will not disappoint.- Weingut Rebholz
- Weingut Dr Heger / Weinhaus Heger
Tasting his 2011 and 2010 Pinot Gris side by side gave a unique insight into the vintages a year apart. The 2011 had much more fruit and was more developed than the 2010, most likely because it was just bottled and the 2010 has “mellowed” with a little more age. Both are ready to be enjoyed now. The 2009 Dr Heger Pinot Noir Dry Grosses Gewachs , Ihringer Winkerberh was next in line to examine. This very nice Pinot Noir was a pleasure to taste. Classic cherry notes, earth, leather and spice come together with silky tannins on the finish.
- Weingut Becker
A Journey Back “Home” For A Sense Of Place
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It is said that one of the most defining aspects of a grape varietal is its sense of place. It has a signature that many times makes it unique and unmistakable. Even Journalists that share their experiences with their ever eager readers have a sense of place, a place that brings memoires screaming to the forefront of the consciousness, a place where it all began for them.
Recently we returned to our sense of place, to the familiar smells, the wines, the food and the people that gave us our own signature and unique sense of place. The lovely Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Ynez Valley in California’s Santa Barbara County is the place where it all began for us and sent us on an incredible journey and a new career.
The quaint coastal town of Morro Bay was the trailhead of our journey south back to our roots. As the familiar morning Fog was beginning to reveal the Historic Morro Rock, we headed out with a few stops planned as we continued our journey down the Hwy 101.
We turned east toward Templeton away from the coast for a stop in to Pomar Junction Vineyard and Winery. The very scenic 30 minute drive took us through fertile farm land and vineyards as the warmth of the Sun broke through to start a cloudless day.
Turning on El Pomar Road, the Vineyards of Pomar Junction came into view. Their Historic Railroad Box Cars signaled the entrance to their tasting room and we had arrived at our first stop.
Having heard we were in the area, Owner Dana Merrill and Winemaker Jim Shumate met us is the tasting room to show us around. And show us around they did!
Back on to Hwy 101 south with the Pacific Ocean over our right shoulder we had yet another stop. This time we were meeting up with fellow journalists for some lunch and bubbles at Laetitia Winery.
There is probably not a much prettier drive than HWY 101 from Morro Bay South, accented by the rolling farm land adjacent to the sparkling Pacific Ocean. Arriving at the tasting room we met up with our journalistic colleagues, tasted through some very elegant Sustainable wines and then had lunch under the trees as we shared stories and enjoyed Laetitia Brut de Blanc , Brut Rose and Brut Cuvee Sparking wines . After saying our goodbyes, it was now time for us to continue south on HWY 101 onto our next stop, our sense of place!
A short drive south on Hwy 101 brought us to Lompoc and Hwy 246. It has been almost two years and now we were home! The Santa Rita Hills always feels like home to us because this is where it all started, right here driving down Hwy 246 memories evoke goose bumps. In this area the Vineyard owners and Winemakers are still “farmers”, they walk the vineyards, many still hand sort Syrah, Pinot noir and Chardonnay and they have opened their homes to us for many years. We have long-term relationships and good friends in this area and some new friends as well.On this visit, John Hilliard and Christine Bruce owners of HilliardBruce Vineyards graciously opened their 100 acre Estate to us as our “base of operations “for the next few days. Driving into their estate was like driving into a movie.
The Lompoc wine Ghetto is relatively new and home to many of the area’s finest wineries all in one place. On this occasion we had to stop in for a visit with the Legendary Kathy Joseph at her Fiddlehead Cellars tasting room right in the middle of the action. Kathy is a true legend and one of our mentors who influenced us greatly and educated us on the art of winemaking.
We sampled her lovely wines and even her very special Lollapalooza Pinot Noir that is a legend in it self. Of course, we had to take a bottle of the Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc to enjoy latter on!
Next stop in the Ghetto was the Palmina Winery tasting room. Palmina is relatively unique to the area as they produce hand crafted Italian varietals. The lively, bubbly tasting room manager took us through their extensive wines from Arneis to some very bold, tasty Nebbiolos and then it was off to see yet another legend in nearby Santa Ynez.
Heading south on 246 memories rush back into our minds like a freight train as we pass the La Purisma Mission and then the Vineyards of Clos Pepe , Babcock , Foley , Melville and then onto Buellton and its’ tasting rooms and of course, The Legendary Hitching Post Restaurant . The next town is the Dutch inspired town of Slovang which is always worth a stop, but on this visit we had a lunch date to keep.Still on the Vineyard gauntlet of Hwy 246 we turn on to Alamo Pinto Rd and dropped in for lunch under the buttonwood trees at Buttonwood Farm and Winery with winemaker Karen Steinwachs.
With the warm sun of the Santa Ynez valley breaking through the Buttonwood trees, Karen started us out with her lovely Sauvignon Blanc 2010 and of course the very famous Zingy 2011 and even a Grenache Blanc. Then it was on to her Syrah Rose, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trevin 2007, Syrah and Grenache as the lunch progressed.
It is always a pleasure to come home and find our sense of place under the Buttonwood trees with a legendary winemaker like Karen as she spoke about the wines and vineyards under the shade of that very special place.
We returned to the lovely HilliardBruce Estate for a night of rest and relaxation. Feeling rejuvenated and refueled by a breakfast we made with fresh eggs right from the Estate, we prepared to embark on our last full day at “home”. Hyw 246 beckoned us once again to bring on our exploration of our roots, but this time we turn on Santa Rosa Road, a route that travels through some of the oldest and renowned vineyards in the area.
Santa Rosa Road is much different from the other areas in the Sta Rita Hills. Surrounded by the hills we actually descend into a valley dotted with Orchards, Vineyards and Wineries. The Vineyards of Sanford, Lafond , Fiddlehead , Alma Rosa and more are all located on this unique section of the appellation. On this day we joined some old friends and mentors Bruno D’Alfonso and Kris Curran who have a combined 50 years of experience making unarguably some of the best wines in the region.Driving past the Orchard trees and to the winery we were reminded that two years is much too long to have been away from “home”. Getting out of the car at the D’Alfonso –Curran winery we were greeted by “the pack”
We walked in to the winery and it was hugs all around for it has been such a long time sense we had last visited.
Kris and Bruno took us though an amazing array of what they produce starting with Curran Grenache Blanc then a very nice Curran Grenache Rosé that is perfect for the summer months. Of course the Badge Pinot Noir was a must an then it was on to their Curran Sangiovese, Curran Tempranillo and Syrah just to name a few .
With us by her side, Kris gave us a preview of upcoming vintages straight from the tanks that in a word were “works of art “. It would be very easy for winemakers like Kris and Bruno to “ rest on their laurels “ , but because they are who they are , they are constantly innovating and staying on the cutting edge of the industry and have many new projects in the works.
Just to be around winemakers of this caliber who are also considered friends is truly an honor. Kris and Bruno are a part of what give us our sense of place when we travel down Santa Rosa Road. Saying goodbye is always hard so we just departed with a hug and see you later as “the pack” escorted us to our car.It’s always tough to depart such great people but we still had a two more stops on this cloudless day in the Sta Rita Hills. We continued on Santa Rosa road and we just had to stop in for a visit to Alma Rosa winery.
We entered the tasting room and were greeting by a very nice and knowledgeable tasting room manager. We started right off with the Santa Barbara County Chardonnay and then on to what Alma Rosa is famous for, Vineyard select Pinot Noir and the man who was literally the first to Plant Pinot Noir in the area over 40 years ago, Richard Sanford.
Sipping on a La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir evoked why we enjoy Pinot Noir from this area. The Sta Rita Hills pust its sense of place on its Pinot Noir and on us as well . We had interviewed Richard Sanford a few years ago and he had heard that we were in the tasting room. We turned and there he was, a true living legend. Richard, always pleasant and welcoming, joined us as we tasted through his amazing Pinot Noir from some of the finest vineyards in the country.
After speaking with Richard and assuring him we would not wait two years before returning, we departed, bottles of Pinot Noir in hand, back down Santa Rosa Road for one last very important visit with people and friends who literally gave us our start.
Many successful people can point to one period in time or a person that has left an inspirational impression, giving credit for a moment that changed their life or direction that created a foundation of for one’s life work or path. For us there is no question on where we got our inspiration and foundation and our gratitude is on-going for Wine Makers Peter and Rebecca Work of Ampelos Cellars in Lompoc.
Back on our old friend Hyw 246 and into Lompoc we turned in to a very familiar place for us, a place where we have spent time with good friends, mentors and even worked, The Ampelos cellars winery. The first to meet us right at our car was Peter Work and joined shortly afterward by Rebecca. It was so great to see our friends and mentors after two years. They have a great story themselves!
Peter started the tasting with their very lovely Rose of Syrah and then moved into Pinot Noir and Syrah. He told us of his wine successes and new projects that they are now working on. Ampelos wines are very unique as they are not only sustainable and organic but also Biodynamic .
They were one of the very first wineries to achieve all three certifications including the coveted SIP certification (Sustainability In Practice). Barrel tasting is always a must when we visit and THAT we did as we roamed up and down the rows of Barrels stopping to sample Syrah, Pinot Noir and Grenache. Each barrel sample showed off what is to come in future years as they age. It was all about reconnecting in the winery and getting reacquainted with the great wines of Ampelos Cellars. As we said our good byes we planned our next visit (which will only be in a few months ) in order to spend more time with our good friends .
Upon leaving the winery there is always a huge mix of emotion as we once again headed back on Hwy 246 and then onto 101 south. The Pacific Ocean gleamed as we sped along the highway, heading home, but once again, with a sense of place in our heart for the wines, vineyards, and friends of this very special part of the world.
It is said that one of the most defining aspects of a grape varietal is its sense of place. It has a signature that many times makes it unique and unmistakable. Even Journalists that share their experiences with their ever eager readers have a sense of place, a place that brings memoires screaming to the forefront of the consciousness, a place where it all began for them.
Recently we returned to our sense of place, to the familiar smells, the wines, the food and the people that gave us our own signature and unique sense of place. The lovely Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Ynez Valley in California’s Santa Barbara County is the place where it all began for us and sent us on an incredible journey and a new career.The quaint coastal town of Morro Bay was the trailhead of our journey south back to our roots. As the familiar morning Fog was beginning to reveal the Historic Morro Rock, we headed out with a few stops planned as we continued our journey down the Hwy 101.
We turned east toward Templeton away from the coast for a stop in to Pomar Junction Vineyard and Winery. The very scenic 30 minute drive took us through fertile farm land and vineyards as the warmth of the Sun broke through to start a cloudless day.Turning on El Pomar Road, the Vineyards of Pomar Junction came into view. Their Historic Railroad Box Cars signaled the entrance to their tasting room and we had arrived at our first stop.
Having heard we were in the area, Owner Dana Merrill and Winemaker Jim Shumate met us is the tasting room to show us around. And show us around they did!- Jim Shumate
Back on to Hwy 101 south with the Pacific Ocean over our right shoulder we had yet another stop. This time we were meeting up with fellow journalists for some lunch and bubbles at Laetitia Winery.
There is probably not a much prettier drive than HWY 101 from Morro Bay South, accented by the rolling farm land adjacent to the sparkling Pacific Ocean. Arriving at the tasting room we met up with our journalistic colleagues, tasted through some very elegant Sustainable wines and then had lunch under the trees as we shared stories and enjoyed Laetitia Brut de Blanc , Brut Rose and Brut Cuvee Sparking wines . After saying our goodbyes, it was now time for us to continue south on HWY 101 onto our next stop, our sense of place!
A short drive south on Hwy 101 brought us to Lompoc and Hwy 246. It has been almost two years and now we were home! The Santa Rita Hills always feels like home to us because this is where it all started, right here driving down Hwy 246 memories evoke goose bumps. In this area the Vineyard owners and Winemakers are still “farmers”, they walk the vineyards, many still hand sort Syrah, Pinot noir and Chardonnay and they have opened their homes to us for many years. We have long-term relationships and good friends in this area and some new friends as well.On this visit, John Hilliard and Christine Bruce owners of HilliardBruce Vineyards graciously opened their 100 acre Estate to us as our “base of operations “for the next few days. Driving into their estate was like driving into a movie.
- HilliardBruce Estate
The Lompoc wine Ghetto is relatively new and home to many of the area’s finest wineries all in one place. On this occasion we had to stop in for a visit with the Legendary Kathy Joseph at her Fiddlehead Cellars tasting room right in the middle of the action. Kathy is a true legend and one of our mentors who influenced us greatly and educated us on the art of winemaking.
We sampled her lovely wines and even her very special Lollapalooza Pinot Noir that is a legend in it self. Of course, we had to take a bottle of the Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc to enjoy latter on!
Next stop in the Ghetto was the Palmina Winery tasting room. Palmina is relatively unique to the area as they produce hand crafted Italian varietals. The lively, bubbly tasting room manager took us through their extensive wines from Arneis to some very bold, tasty Nebbiolos and then it was off to see yet another legend in nearby Santa Ynez.
Heading south on 246 memories rush back into our minds like a freight train as we pass the La Purisma Mission and then the Vineyards of Clos Pepe , Babcock , Foley , Melville and then onto Buellton and its’ tasting rooms and of course, The Legendary Hitching Post Restaurant . The next town is the Dutch inspired town of Slovang which is always worth a stop, but on this visit we had a lunch date to keep.Still on the Vineyard gauntlet of Hwy 246 we turn on to Alamo Pinto Rd and dropped in for lunch under the buttonwood trees at Buttonwood Farm and Winery with winemaker Karen Steinwachs.With the warm sun of the Santa Ynez valley breaking through the Buttonwood trees, Karen started us out with her lovely Sauvignon Blanc 2010 and of course the very famous Zingy 2011 and even a Grenache Blanc. Then it was on to her Syrah Rose, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trevin 2007, Syrah and Grenache as the lunch progressed.It is always a pleasure to come home and find our sense of place under the Buttonwood trees with a legendary winemaker like Karen as she spoke about the wines and vineyards under the shade of that very special place.
- Karen Steinwachs and Elaine Harris
We returned to the lovely HilliardBruce Estate for a night of rest and relaxation. Feeling rejuvenated and refueled by a breakfast we made with fresh eggs right from the Estate, we prepared to embark on our last full day at “home”. Hyw 246 beckoned us once again to bring on our exploration of our roots, but this time we turn on Santa Rosa Road, a route that travels through some of the oldest and renowned vineyards in the area.
- HilliardBruce Estate
Santa Rosa Road is much different from the other areas in the Sta Rita Hills. Surrounded by the hills we actually descend into a valley dotted with Orchards, Vineyards and Wineries. The Vineyards of Sanford, Lafond , Fiddlehead , Alma Rosa and more are all located on this unique section of the appellation. On this day we joined some old friends and mentors Bruno D’Alfonso and Kris Curran who have a combined 50 years of experience making unarguably some of the best wines in the region.Driving past the Orchard trees and to the winery we were reminded that two years is much too long to have been away from “home”. Getting out of the car at the D’Alfonso –Curran winery we were greeted by “the pack”
- Bruno D’Alfonso ,Kris Curran and "The Pack "
We walked in to the winery and it was hugs all around for it has been such a long time sense we had last visited.
Kris and Bruno took us though an amazing array of what they produce starting with Curran Grenache Blanc then a very nice Curran Grenache Rosé that is perfect for the summer months. Of course the Badge Pinot Noir was a must an then it was on to their Curran Sangiovese, Curran Tempranillo and Syrah just to name a few .With us by her side, Kris gave us a preview of upcoming vintages straight from the tanks that in a word were “works of art “. It would be very easy for winemakers like Kris and Bruno to “ rest on their laurels “ , but because they are who they are , they are constantly innovating and staying on the cutting edge of the industry and have many new projects in the works.
Just to be around winemakers of this caliber who are also considered friends is truly an honor. Kris and Bruno are a part of what give us our sense of place when we travel down Santa Rosa Road. Saying goodbye is always hard so we just departed with a hug and see you later as “the pack” escorted us to our car.It’s always tough to depart such great people but we still had a two more stops on this cloudless day in the Sta Rita Hills. We continued on Santa Rosa road and we just had to stop in for a visit to Alma Rosa winery.We entered the tasting room and were greeting by a very nice and knowledgeable tasting room manager. We started right off with the Santa Barbara County Chardonnay and then on to what Alma Rosa is famous for, Vineyard select Pinot Noir and the man who was literally the first to Plant Pinot Noir in the area over 40 years ago, Richard Sanford.
- Richard Sanford
Sipping on a La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir evoked why we enjoy Pinot Noir from this area. The Sta Rita Hills pust its sense of place on its Pinot Noir and on us as well . We had interviewed Richard Sanford a few years ago and he had heard that we were in the tasting room. We turned and there he was, a true living legend. Richard, always pleasant and welcoming, joined us as we tasted through his amazing Pinot Noir from some of the finest vineyards in the country.
After speaking with Richard and assuring him we would not wait two years before returning, we departed, bottles of Pinot Noir in hand, back down Santa Rosa Road for one last very important visit with people and friends who literally gave us our start.Many successful people can point to one period in time or a person that has left an inspirational impression, giving credit for a moment that changed their life or direction that created a foundation of for one’s life work or path. For us there is no question on where we got our inspiration and foundation and our gratitude is on-going for Wine Makers Peter and Rebecca Work of Ampelos Cellars in Lompoc.
- Rebecca and Peter Work
Back on our old friend Hyw 246 and into Lompoc we turned in to a very familiar place for us, a place where we have spent time with good friends, mentors and even worked, The Ampelos cellars winery. The first to meet us right at our car was Peter Work and joined shortly afterward by Rebecca. It was so great to see our friends and mentors after two years. They have a great story themselves!
Peter started the tasting with their very lovely Rose of Syrah and then moved into Pinot Noir and Syrah. He told us of his wine successes and new projects that they are now working on. Ampelos wines are very unique as they are not only sustainable and organic but also Biodynamic .They were one of the very first wineries to achieve all three certifications including the coveted SIP certification (Sustainability In Practice). Barrel tasting is always a must when we visit and THAT we did as we roamed up and down the rows of Barrels stopping to sample Syrah, Pinot Noir and Grenache. Each barrel sample showed off what is to come in future years as they age. It was all about reconnecting in the winery and getting reacquainted with the great wines of Ampelos Cellars. As we said our good byes we planned our next visit (which will only be in a few months ) in order to spend more time with our good friends .
Upon leaving the winery there is always a huge mix of emotion as we once again headed back on Hwy 246 and then onto 101 south. The Pacific Ocean gleamed as we sped along the highway, heading home, but once again, with a sense of place in our heart for the wines, vineyards, and friends of this very special part of the world.HilliardBruce Estate Wines In The Sta. Rita Hills Of California Make A Big Impression .
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Recently we stopped in to the sprawling, picturesque HilliardBruce Estate located between Lompoc and Bueleton California along Hwy 246 in the Sta Rita Hills to check out the latest vintages of this very boutique producer.We have watched this producer literally from the very beginning. Starting in 2004 John Hilliard and Christine Bruce planted 21 Acres of Vineyards on their 101 Acre estate that is also home to rolling green pastures for their Arabian Horses. 
Their wine is made 100% from their SIP Certified estate vineyards of Pinot noir and Chardonnay.We decided to get down to the terroir of the vineyard and take a closer look at what produces this amazing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There is 17.5 acres planted of Pinot Noir consisting of clones Calera, Pommard, 115, 667, 777, and 828. The Chardonnay planted consists of approx 3.5 acres and clones 76 and 96. Both varietals combine for an average of 2,420 vines per acre.
Keeping with their sustainability practices, the property is solar powered by 35 Kilowatts of solar panels. Water is from a six acre foot reservoir and compost is made on site.
We entered the vast tasting room of the estate with unimaginable views of regal Arabian horses in pristine pastures surrounded by the Vineyards of this state of the art Estate.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills.Straight from the 3.4 acre Estate Chardonnay vineyard, our very first impression that came to mind is white burgundy. In the glass this straw colored, medium bodied wine led us to a very complex nose of mineral, slate and citrus. On the Palate, mineral, grapefruit and some earth notes combine for a long elegant finish. This very lovely Chardonnay is aged 100% French oak, 30% new, barrel fermented with Montrachet yeast, full malolactic fermentation and aged on the lees for 16 months with battonage techniques. With only 175 cases produced, this Chardonnay is a must for your cellar and drinkable any time of year.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Pinot Noir Sun Santa Rita Hills
We were interested to take a look at the 2010 Vintage of the SUN Pinot Noir even though it is younger than we usually would taste. In the glass, the classic burgundy color sparked in the afternoon sun with this medium bodied Pinot Noir. On the nose, expected aromas of Cherry and spice combine with the signature light smoke of the Sta Rita Hills terroir. On the palate , intense Cherry , Red Fruit and spice jump out with crisp , bright flavors and linger for a long finish and soft mouth feel that was impressive for a young wine. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new and aged on the lees 16 months. This lovely Pinot Noir has a 600 case production and from what we tasted in the 2010 Vintage will be even more of a star as it progresses in age.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Pinot Noir Moon Santa Rita Hills
This Pinot Noir from their Moon Vineyard is truly special. Each vine only bears 1.5 pounds of fruit and the clusters are so small they can fit in closed fist. Now that’s what we call intense! In the glass this Pinot Noir showed deep burgundy color giving way to a deep red rose color near the glass rim and medium bodied. On the nose, dark red fruit, red flowers, cherry and spice are predominant. On the Palate, elegant red cherry, all-spice, light smoke and earth notes show off a very classic Pinot Noir and a signature of the Sta. Rita Hills. It is well known that Pinot Noir more than most varietals shows its sense of place. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new, aged on the lees 16 months , The 2010 HilliardBruce Moon Pinot Noir with only 195 cases produced shows classic Pinot Noir notes with its signature sense of place in the Sta Rita Hills on the HilliardBruce Estate.
It is hard to realize that the HilliardBruce Estate Vineyards were only planted in 2004 with the quality of wines being produced over the last 3-4 years. HilliardBruce Estate wines have been getting a lot of attention and highly rated and we can see why.
A Sustainable vineyard , high standards , located in one of the world’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay regions bring the best together at one Estate in the Sta Rita Hills for quality wines that will continue to garner world wide acclaim. For more information on HilliardBruce Estate Wines visit http://www.hilliardbruce.com
Recently we stopped in to the sprawling, picturesque HilliardBruce Estate located between Lompoc and Bueleton California along Hwy 246 in the Sta Rita Hills to check out the latest vintages of this very boutique producer.We have watched this producer literally from the very beginning. Starting in 2004 John Hilliard and Christine Bruce planted 21 Acres of Vineyards on their 101 Acre estate that is also home to rolling green pastures for their Arabian Horses. Their wine is made 100% from their SIP Certified estate vineyards of Pinot noir and Chardonnay.We decided to get down to the terroir of the vineyard and take a closer look at what produces this amazing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. There is 17.5 acres planted of Pinot Noir consisting of clones Calera, Pommard, 115, 667, 777, and 828. The Chardonnay planted consists of approx 3.5 acres and clones 76 and 96. Both varietals combine for an average of 2,420 vines per acre.Keeping with their sustainability practices, the property is solar powered by 35 Kilowatts of solar panels. Water is from a six acre foot reservoir and compost is made on site.
We entered the vast tasting room of the estate with unimaginable views of regal Arabian horses in pristine pastures surrounded by the Vineyards of this state of the art Estate.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills.Straight from the 3.4 acre Estate Chardonnay vineyard, our very first impression that came to mind is white burgundy. In the glass this straw colored, medium bodied wine led us to a very complex nose of mineral, slate and citrus. On the Palate, mineral, grapefruit and some earth notes combine for a long elegant finish. This very lovely Chardonnay is aged 100% French oak, 30% new, barrel fermented with Montrachet yeast, full malolactic fermentation and aged on the lees for 16 months with battonage techniques. With only 175 cases produced, this Chardonnay is a must for your cellar and drinkable any time of year.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Pinot Noir Sun Santa Rita Hills
We were interested to take a look at the 2010 Vintage of the SUN Pinot Noir even though it is younger than we usually would taste. In the glass, the classic burgundy color sparked in the afternoon sun with this medium bodied Pinot Noir. On the nose, expected aromas of Cherry and spice combine with the signature light smoke of the Sta Rita Hills terroir. On the palate , intense Cherry , Red Fruit and spice jump out with crisp , bright flavors and linger for a long finish and soft mouth feel that was impressive for a young wine. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new and aged on the lees 16 months. This lovely Pinot Noir has a 600 case production and from what we tasted in the 2010 Vintage will be even more of a star as it progresses in age.
2010 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Pinot Noir Moon Santa Rita HillsThis Pinot Noir from their Moon Vineyard is truly special. Each vine only bears 1.5 pounds of fruit and the clusters are so small they can fit in closed fist. Now that’s what we call intense! In the glass this Pinot Noir showed deep burgundy color giving way to a deep red rose color near the glass rim and medium bodied. On the nose, dark red fruit, red flowers, cherry and spice are predominant. On the Palate, elegant red cherry, all-spice, light smoke and earth notes show off a very classic Pinot Noir and a signature of the Sta. Rita Hills. It is well known that Pinot Noir more than most varietals shows its sense of place. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new, aged on the lees 16 months , The 2010 HilliardBruce Moon Pinot Noir with only 195 cases produced shows classic Pinot Noir notes with its signature sense of place in the Sta Rita Hills on the HilliardBruce Estate.
It is hard to realize that the HilliardBruce Estate Vineyards were only planted in 2004 with the quality of wines being produced over the last 3-4 years. HilliardBruce Estate wines have been getting a lot of attention and highly rated and we can see why.A Sustainable vineyard , high standards , located in one of the world’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay regions bring the best together at one Estate in the Sta Rita Hills for quality wines that will continue to garner world wide acclaim. For more information on HilliardBruce Estate Wines visit http://www.hilliardbruce.com
8 Temmuz 2012 Pazar
The List is Out: Best Bars 2011: 10 Top Seattle Bars Right Now
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The Best Bars of 2011? And Tavern Law plus our little upstairs spot made the list!
Seattle Met mag wrote, "Tavern Law attracts a comely crowd that sips expertly wrought flips, slings, sours, and punches while snacking on small plates (foie gras, fried oysters) rich enough to hold up against those potent pre-Prohibition potables. But the real magic is upstairs at Needle and Thread, the bar’s second-level spirits sanctuary. Lined with artisan bottles and sepia-toned nudie photos, this 30-seat “speakeasy” benefits from the undivided attention of one silk-vested, mustachioed barman who crafts each drink to order. (There’s no menu, so prepare for a conversation). Tavern Law, 1406 12th Ave, Capitol Hill, 206-322-9734; tavernlaw.com"
Photo of The Last Word by Ryan McVay for Seattle Met. Thank you Seattle Met!
The Best Bars of 2011? And Tavern Law plus our little upstairs spot made the list!
Seattle Met mag wrote, "Tavern Law attracts a comely crowd that sips expertly wrought flips, slings, sours, and punches while snacking on small plates (foie gras, fried oysters) rich enough to hold up against those potent pre-Prohibition potables. But the real magic is upstairs at Needle and Thread, the bar’s second-level spirits sanctuary. Lined with artisan bottles and sepia-toned nudie photos, this 30-seat “speakeasy” benefits from the undivided attention of one silk-vested, mustachioed barman who crafts each drink to order. (There’s no menu, so prepare for a conversation). Tavern Law, 1406 12th Ave, Capitol Hill, 206-322-9734; tavernlaw.com"
Photo of The Last Word by Ryan McVay for Seattle Met. Thank you Seattle Met!
Tavern Law Tip from Kathy Casey in the Wall Street Journal
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In the Wall Street Journal, locals like Dale Chihuly, Howard Schultz and Kathy Casey were tapped for tips on the Insider's Guide to Seattle. WHAT MAKES THE EMERALD CITY SHINE? "The Foodie Seattle-based chef, restaurant consultant and cookbook author," Casey suggests: "Secret Sipping: Needle & Thread (upstairs at Tavern Law). When you enter, head towards the bank vault door, pick up the old-fashioned wall phone and ask for a seat. If lucky, head upstairs to this sexy speakeasy, where the bartender will craft you a custom cocktail. Just name your spirit and how you like it. 1406 12th Ave., tavernlaw.com"
Click blog title above to read all about the City's don't miss spots.
Thank you Kathy and the Wall Street Journal.
In the Wall Street Journal, locals like Dale Chihuly, Howard Schultz and Kathy Casey were tapped for tips on the Insider's Guide to Seattle. WHAT MAKES THE EMERALD CITY SHINE? "The Foodie Seattle-based chef, restaurant consultant and cookbook author," Casey suggests: "Secret Sipping: Needle & Thread (upstairs at Tavern Law). When you enter, head towards the bank vault door, pick up the old-fashioned wall phone and ask for a seat. If lucky, head upstairs to this sexy speakeasy, where the bartender will craft you a custom cocktail. Just name your spirit and how you like it. 1406 12th Ave., tavernlaw.com"
Click blog title above to read all about the City's don't miss spots.
Thank you Kathy and the Wall Street Journal.
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